December 2007
The first day of December found GD at anchor in Saga Cove in Clarkes Court Bay where Dave Royce measured for an awning. I motored back in almost zero wind - very unusual conditions for here when the trade winds are generally so reliable.
Another night at Prickly Bay and then round the corner and north to St Georges Lagoon where Peter de Savary is busy building a marina village that looks like it came from the pen of an architect trained at the Disney Studios.
On Tuesday 4th I sailed north to Tyrrel Bay logging 32 miles with some good sailing but mainly motor sailing in the very light trades we are having at the moment. This is a popular anchorage, but large so there's room for everyone. On Saturday 8th, in the company of Paul and Janie (Shian) and Derek (Buzzard), I walked up Chapeau Carre, the local hill - a 945' climb up tracks and steep banks through an old farm. It has good views of the island and the surrounding islands and is well worth the effort of finding the track. We stocked up with limes from a tree on the way back down.
From Tyrrel Bay a short hop across to Union Island where I anchored under the lee of Frigate Rock instead of going into Clifton Harbour. This meant a dinghy ride of a mile and then the local bus to get to the airport to check in to St Vincent & The Grenadines (SVG). Clearance was completed by one of the most friendly and welcoming customs officers I have ever met. The bus ride gave a me a free tour of the island. Forced to re-anchor early in the evening when the strong gusts curling over Frigate rock came in from the west and pushed me towards the shore.
The following day Derek ( Buzzard) and I climbed Frigate Rock, scrambling up through dense vegetation and steep little basal cliffs to the top where there were great views of the harbour and the islands round about. The descent was fun, carefully climbing back down the basalt outcrops and then plunging through head high vegetation to the shore.
I moved on the following day to Chatham Bay on the west coast of Union Island. Less rolly than Ashton which had become uncomfortable due to the now stronger winds, it has a long sandy beach with a couple of basic beach bars. Paul & Janie (Shian) where already there so it was very sociable.
Saturday 15th found me motoring round to Clifton for provisions and then heading north up the windward side of Union Island to Mayreau for a night in Saline Bay. Here a French yacht anchored way too close to me despite it being an enormous anchorage with plenty of space. When I told him I thought he was too close and could swing into me he called back 'It's OK I have my dinghy alongside and I'm rigging fenders! I insisted he move which he did and eventually I saw the funny side of the exchange. Early the next morning I moved up the coast to join Shian in Salt Whistle Bay - a perfect anchorage in a small bay with a discrete hotel. It's very popular but if you arrive early or on Saturday (charter change-over day) you might be lucky.
With Paul & Janie I walked over the top of the island via the interesting church with good views of Tobago Cays to Saline Bay and back again.
On to Tobago Cays but the snorkeling was not good due to the strong trades stirring up the water and giving poor visibility. I did see a large turtle feeding on the sea grass, a most beautiful animal.
Sailing the short run from Tobago Cays to Canouan started out fine but I was soon enveloped in heavy rain and gusts due to a trough passing over.
It rained all night and well into the next morning but at least it washed the salt off the decks and enabled me to catch some water to supplement my supplies.
Around 11.00 on Wednesday 19th I set sail with two reefs in the main and 1/2 the headsail, hard on the wind for the 20 mile passage to Bequia. GD performed well, averaging around 7 knots despite the reduced sail and overtaking two other boats on the way.
Now I am anchored off Princess Margaret Beach in Admiralty Bay enjoying the town, restocking food and water and watching the superb sunsets over the bay. Perfect.
I spent Christmas at anchor in Admiralty Bay. Friends Pam & John from Derby arrived on Christmas eve aboard their Amel ketch having crossed the Atlantic with the Blue Water Rally. Christmas day breakfast was a feast provided by Paul & Janie aboard Shian. Sundowner's aboard GD before they all went off to various restaurants and me to cook my nut roast.
I left Bequia heading south now to pick up Jacky in Grenada in January, via Mayreau and the Tobago Cays where the snorkeling was in much clearer water conditions than before Christmas. Then a hop down via Union Island to clear out and sail on to Carriacou to clear in. It is a pain that almost every island is a different state requiring customs and immigration clearance. The chap at Carriacou again tried to scam me out of $20 'overtime fees' as I was checking in after 16.00, but somehow the fee evaporated when I asked for a receipt!
I over-nighted at Sandy Island on 29th. Sandly Island is a small crescent of sand and reefs at the western edge of Hillsborough Bay which dadly damaged by Hurricane Ivan. I shared this fine anchorage with a selection of ordinary and both sail and motor super yachts before moving round to Tyrrel Bay between the huge gusty and very wet squalls that came through this morning.
New Years Eve in Tyrrel Bay. Alan & Anne (Freya of Clyde) arrived just before dark. Come midnight the locals let off fireworks so they fall, still burning, into the anchorage - great! I passed into 2008 sitting in the cockpit with a bucket of water and a wet towel waiting to do some fire-fighting! Maybe someone needs to explain that rockets are designed to be fired vertically not horizontally - doh!
Early the next morning, 1st January, I sailed for Grenada.