March 2010
St Lucia ~ Bequia ~ ...
On Monday 1st March we left Le Marin, Martinique for the 25 mile sail across to Rodney Bay, St Lucia. We had a pleasant sail across in 4 1/2 hours anchor up to anchor down. We dropped the hook under Pigeon Island in the north side of the bay under the old fort which sits on the hilltop guarding the entrance and looking north to French occupied Martinique - a legacy from the many years of conflict when the various European powers fought each other for the control of these islands.
After a few days relaxing in Rodney Bay we sailed south to Soufriere where we took a mooring at Malgretout ("In spite of everything" - an interesting name for a bay.) You need to run a line ashore here which we did with the help of a local boatman called Bob who was efficient and friendly. Leaving early the following morning was a hassle though - it amazes me where small boys appear from - even at first light in an isolated bay - trying to extract dollars and creating fuss if you don't pay them. A form of blackmail really. This particular one claimed the line I'd put ashore the day before and which I was now removing "belonged to his cousin who'd put it there for my use" !
We had a bit of a slog for the 52 miles to Bequia as the wind had gone into the south east and picked up a bit. The first few miles leaving The Pitons is always lumpy and bumpy with gusty winds bending round the mountains and the southern end of the island. They settle a little as you get further out and leave the influence of St Lucia behind. During this crossing we saw a few dolphins and then a leather-backed turtle flapping slowly up current like a small tank. This was the first we'd ever seen, but they are very distinctive with the grey, ridged backs. We had to motor past St Vincent as the wind was completely blocked by the island, and then another short beat across the channel to Bequia where we arrived at 16.30. It was nice to be still. A pot of tea, French biscuits and a relaxing evening followed - well earned we felt.
On 6th we arose early to very light winds and boats swinging all over the place. I went to check in with customs and immigration and back to the boat to start the drying out process. We'd forgotten to fully close the forepeak hatch and so had taken in water when the bow disappeared under a wave as we left St Lucia. Luckily Jacky was below and saw the first one cascading in and closed the hatch properly. Isn't it incredible how much water can get in such a small hole! Oh well - it helps to flush the bilges.
Still relaxing in Bequia which doesn't seem as busy this year as it has the last few years. Yesterday we walked over to the windward side of the island - a short hike over concrete roads through coconut plantations to the beaches at Spring and Industry. They are small, picturesque beaches but suffer, as many of the Caribbean windward beaches do, with accumulated natural and man-made debris which blows in from the east.
There is a convenient bar / restaurant behind the beach at Industry with loungers and seats. A pleasant place to refresh yourself before the walk back over the hill to Port Elizabeth on Admiralty Bay.
Drinking sundowners (rum punch usually) on the boat is always diverting at Bequia as many boats arrive after dark. These include some of the smaller cruise liners like the 'sailing' ship Club Med boats.
The next morning small tenders scurry about bringing the passengers ashore. For a brief time the street vendors selling hand-made jewellery, carvings and model boats become a little more animated than usual - only a little though, this is the Caribbean!
Friends Gary and Linda (July Indian) are here and Scott, Mike and Linda (Boxxer) arrived a few days later now Boxxer is back in the water after a long time in the yard.
Bequia is one of those places where cruisers tend to stick on their way up or down the chain of islands and in fact some people stay here for the whole season.
There is lots of activity as can be seen in the above photo which shows in the background the ferries which run across to St Vincent. In the middle left is the blue and yellow hull of 'Friendship Rose' a windward schooner used now as a tourist boat. In the left foreground are two 'boat boy' boats called 'Bay Watch' and 'Phat Shag'. 'Phat is apparently a local word meaning 'good' and 'shag' in this case doesn't refer to a feathered sea bird... subtle or what!
After too long in Bequia (as always!) we sailed south to anchor overnight in Canouan and then on the following morning to Tobago Cays to anchor in turquoise blue water and enjoy the great snorkeling. The Green Turtles are always great to watch as they graze on the sea grass and come up for air every few minutes flapping lazily but with an amazing turn of speed when they want to. We also saw quite a few nurse sharks 4 or 5 feet long swimming amongst the coral heads or laying still on the sand bottom or on the coral. They seem to be asleep when they are doing this.
After three days there we headed out to Petit Tabac, a small island just inside Horseshoe Reef, the outer reef around Tobago Cays. This was the island used in Pirates of the Caribbean where the hero and heroine where marooned in the first film. It's a small and nerve-racking anchorage between reefs and a little exposed to any changes in weather so it's really a day anchorage. We had some good snorkeling and lunch on the boat. Jacky walked round the island but I didn't want to leave the boat unmanned. This afternoon we sailed across to Clifton Harbour on Union Island to check out and anchor overnight before moving south tomorrow.
After sundowners in the evening at the bar on the reef in Clifton Harbour- which gets better every year - we sailed round to Chatham Bay on Union Island to enjoy the snorkeling in the north of the bay. There are thousands upon thousands of small silver fish forming 'rivers' of sparkling flashes along the shore which are fascinating to watch and also attract pelicans and boobies that dive and fish from the rocks.
South again to Tyrrel Bay where, as we approached, we heard a boat called Moody Finn asking for assistance entering the anchorage as they'd lost their engine. We assisted with a tow to a mooring buoy.
The following day we escorted Moody Finn with Chris and Barbara and their crew (an 8-week old baby, a 3-year old boy and two non-sailors) back to Grenada via a very lumpy and bumpy windward side of the island as taking the leeward route could possibly have ended up with a three-hour towing session to get to St Georges and then they would still have had the problem getting eastwards along the south coast of Grenada against wind and current.
Mike and Lucy of Palm Tree Marine met them off Petite Calvigny Bay to tow them into the marina while we anchored off Calvigny Island. Grenada customs weren't up and running in La Phare Bleu so the following day we went round to Prickly Bay to check in and anchor for a couple of days to prepare for Jacky's flight back to the UK.
Now waiting for the weather to be suitable to sail to Antigua for the Classic Sailing Festival. I have a crewing position on Jambalaya (website) a classic Windward Schooner but I have to get there first! There are various fronts and troughs interfering with the normal trade wind patterns and sending mixed north and east swells down into the Caribbean and pushing the winds more northerly and even going light and variable further north - not comfortable for heading north!
In the meantime I have helped Scott (Boxxer) to have his boat hauled for the season and he and I have sailed along the south coast of Grenada for a few days while I wait. Currently in Clarke's Court Bay for the burger night and to catch up with other cruisers I have met over this and previous years.